Battambang is Cambodia's second-largest city (urban area population 124,290 according to the 1998 census) and the capital of Battambang Province. It is an elegant riverside town, home to some of the best-preserved colonial architecture in the country. Until recently Battambang was off the map for road travellers, but facilities have recently been improved and it makes a great base for visiting the nearby temples (Phnom Banon, Wat Ek Phnom...) and villages. It's a secondary hub on the overland route between Thailand and Vietnam, and if National Highway 6 from Poipet to Siem Reap is ever upgraded it'll become an even smaller hub. The network of charming old French shop houses clustered along the riverbank is the real highlight here, and there are a number of wats scattered around the town. The small museum has a collection of Angkorian-era artefacts, and beyond the town there's a number of hilltop temples, yet more wats and a large lake. One of the more famous hills is Phnom Sampeau (Ship Hill) with the notorious killing caves

Battambang is known for its statues which seemingly decorate every public place. Most are of animals (mythical and real) and divinities (also mythical and real?)

The most famous of these statues is on the main road in from Phnom Penh and is of an ancient Khmer King holding a stick which he used to quell rebellions in the Battambang area. The name of the town / province comes from this legend.

The town also has a number of fine colonial buildings along the river including a very grand French era governors residence.

Around Battambang:

• Phnom Sompoen, a hill with the killing caves of the Khmer rouges, a series of buddhist caves and a monastery with two Stupas on the hilltop. Entry is US$2, covering also Wat Banan.

• Wat Banan, the so-called mini-Angkor wat, an impressive flight of stairs leads up to a dilapidated Angkor-type temple which is still in use as a buddhist shrine.

• Wat Baydamram, the bat temple, where hundreds of fruit bats live under the protection of the monks.

• Wat Ek Phnom, another Angkor-type temple ruin, about 15 km north west of Battambang. The road goes alongside lovely small rivers bordered by trees and small villages and is in general a very nice area. Approaching Wat Ek Phnom you suddenly encounter a giant buddha statue in the wat. The grounds of the Wat also have an Angkorian era temple which is in relatively good shape and with some interesting carvings.

Several opportunities to explore villages exist just south of town. The Cultural village of Watkor, just a few km south of the town center has several "ancient wooden houses" from the early 20th century. Further south are the agricultural villages of Kompong Seyma, and Ksach Puoy. For info call District Administration Battambang: 012.881.516/016.666.111

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