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Bagan
Bagan (Burmese: ; MLCTS: pu. gam mrui.), formerly Pagan, formally titled Arimaddanapura (the City of the Enemy Crusher) and also known as Tambadipa (the Land of Copper) or Tassadessa (the Parched Land), was the ancient capital of several ancient kingdoms in Myanmar. It is located in the dry central plains of the country, on the eastern bank of the Ayeyarwady River, 145 kilometres (90 miles) southwest of Mandalay.- Ananda - Bagan's holiest temple, built by the third king, Kyan-zit-tha in 1091. Ananda comes from the Pali word "anantapannya", which means "boundless wisdom". The temple houses four Buddhas facing the cardinal directions, which represent the four Buddhas who have attained Nirvana. The fifth, Maitreya, is yet to appear.
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Nann Myint Tower, Bagan
Made by Libyan Soup
A 1000 yards away is as near as I got (with a 300mm lens) to the Nann Myint Tower, known unofficially as the Bagan Tower and Than Shwe’s Tower. This controversial tower has been open to public since April 2005. According to the military junta, “Nann Myint Tower is the ideal one stop viewpoint for visitors to Bagan to see the wonders of over 2000 ancient architectural temples and monuments of the 11th to 13th century.” The entrance fee is 10 USD per pax. When you consider that it costs 10 USD per pax to enter the Bagan Archeological Zone and that this one off fee then allows you to stay as for many days as you like, by comparison, the tower’s entrance fee seems excessive. The tower fee ends up going straight to the military junta the locals know this and are rightly unwilling to take anyone there. This simple boycott means that hardly anyone has ever been to this ‘white elephant.’ The tower is unsurprisingly not the ‘cash cow’ that the regime hoped it would be. However, all this could change if the junta became serious about enforced the policy of banning visitors from climbing the monuments. The junta says, “the 198-foot tower, will give tourists a bird's-eye view of Bagan and they (tourists) will be barred from clambering over ancient pagodas that are being damaged by thousands of invading feet every day.” The director general of hotels and tourism, Khin Maung Latt, says the tower will help preserve the world-famous archaeological site and will keep tourists from climbing on ancient temples to get a better view. Whilst it is true that since 1990 climbing up to the terraces of the major sites has been restricted, all are not as inaccessible as the junta would have you believe. In reality, some sites are locked, but a key master is usually nearby and willing to show you in and up for a little ‘tea money.’ The tower stands only 3 feet shorter than the tallest temple of all; Thatbyinnyu. At 198 feet high the tower has a total of 13 levels, but allegedly it has no lift (elevator). At the first floor, there is a small galleria with a souvenir shop. The first 2 levels are meeting rooms, levels 5 to 7 are offices, and from levels 11 to 13 are viewing rooms and a restaurant and bar. The tower, which was expected to cost up to US$3 million, was built by the Htoo Trading Company Ltd. This same company also built and operates the recently completed Aureum Palace Hotel & Resort on the adjoining 27 acre site. Htoo’s chairman is U Teza (Tay za), the protégé of Burma’s military dictator General Than Shwe. Incidentally, Teza was the local agent that brokered Russian sales of helicopters and later MiG-29s to the junta and is suspected of involvement in small arms sales. Teza is also the chairman of Air Bagan Ltd, Burma’s third joint-venture airline and newest domestic airline. The other two joint-venture airlines are Air Mandalay and Yangon Airways. Air Mandalay is owned by Malaysian interests and is regarded as the most professionally run in the country, it's managed by Selvakumar, a retired Malaysian airforce officer. Yangon Airways is owned by the family of Pao Yu-chang, the leader of the United Wa State Party. The United Wa State Party has been described by the US State Department as the world’s largest armed narcotics-trafficking organization. In traditional Burmese culture, spending money on religious buildings is a meritorious act which counts against sins when it comes to the next reincarnation. Donors hope that their generosity will stop them from returning as a rat or a cockroach in their next life. The military junta’s regime, its officials and cronies must all be eager to atone for their sins as they are responsible for most of the rebuilding and new construction at Bagan. Though it has been said by locals that, “the generals could not build a pagoda big enough to wipe out their sins.” Inhabitants of the ancient city of Bagan and local guides privately admit they hate it and whisper it was sacrilegious to build the tower higher than all but one of the pagodas. But fear of the military junta is such that no one is willing to voice opposition publicly. Foreign observers have been equally scathing about the tower. World Heritage status, craved by the military junta, has pointedly not been granted for Bagan. UNESCO, the U.N. agency that has the power to grant or withhold prestigious World Heritage status and the accompanying funding, has spoken loudly against the tower. Richard Engelhardt, UNESCO's Bangkok-based regional adviser for culture has said, “It's a very big mistake. It sticks a big eyesore right in the middle of the site.” However this statement is not really true either, the tower is not in the middle of the site as claimed. The tower is located in the eastern part of Bagan archeological site a long way from the main sites; nearly 5km from Gawdawpalin, over 4km from Ananda and Shwesandaw, over 3.5km from Dhammayangyi, and over 2.5km from Sulamani and Shwezigon. In reality the tower is barely visible and is thankfully lost within the vastness of Bagan and more often it is simply hidden from view by one or more of the 2,500 monuments that cover the site. It is worth noting whilst the tower is undoubtedly a mistake it is not the sole reason that Bagan has not been granted World Heritage status. The main reasons for refusal are the damaging long-term developments on the site and the dire reconstruction of pagodas using modern materials and building techniques since the 1975 earthquake. View from Pyathadar (Pyathatgyi) Nann Myint means “High Palace” in Burmese. Pyathadar is Bagan Monument Number 803 IMG_2024

htilominlo pahto
Made by *Sabine*
bagan, myanmar htilominlo pahto (temple) was built in 1211 for king htilominlo. 46m high and based on a 42m-square base, it is one of the largest temples in bagan.

sunset on the irrawaddy
Made by woowoowoo
The sunset over the Irrawaddy was possibly better than the one from the Pagoda, but it was still giving a bit of a show when we arrived back at the Hotel Thande.

irrawaddy
Made by woowoowoo
Breakfast at the hotel Thande is served overlooking the Irrawaddy river. Just the name is enough to get excited about.

temples of baghan 90°-view south
Made by vaubeh
stitched with hugin
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